A HIKE IN THE HILLS

On a recent hazy Sunday morning, we had the pleasure of tagging along with the St. Croix Hiking Association on a walking tour of the Castle Nugent Farm on St. Croix's south shore.  From the very outset (meeting time was 6:00 am) our group of 40 adventurers was enthusiastic and inquisitive.

Our guide was Olasee Davis, one of the Caribbean's premier historian-naturalists.  His knowledge of the flora and fauna of St. Croix proved, as the morning wore on, to be encyclopedic.

As we left the grounds of the Castle Nugent greathouse and out-buildings (now doing double duty not only as a working farm, but as a popular bed and breakfast) we passed an historic chapel turned bungalow where the owner, Caroline Gasperi, resides.

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We walked along a "living fence", which is a series of hardy truncated white manjack trees through which barbed wire has been strung. Manjack has a very coarse leaf, like sandpaper, which at one time was used to clean teeth. We walked onward (and gradually upward) through "native pasture", that is ones that have not been cleared and replanted with grasses for grazing. In these fields, indiginious and introduced plants live side by side as they have done for hundreds of years.

Acacia (casha) was everywhere. It is a high protein, nitrogen fixing plant that is often plowed back into the soil to strengthen it. It was traditionally used in the coal pot as it is a hard wood that burns well. It is valued as a wood for making charcoal.

Guinea fowl clucked through the guinea grass.

Column Cactus was abundant as well. These spiny plants have no leaves, thus suffer low evaporation and retain moisture which allows them to thrive in the arid bush of St. Croix's east end.

A herd of horses was surprised, and then curious, as we invaded its high pastoral turf. They followed us, actually mingled with us, for a little while but soon got bored and wandered off.

Olasee pointed out the wild physic nut, tamarind tree, tan-tan, and the dog almond tree, the leaves of which were used by Crucian ancestors to catch fish. A concentration of the toxic leaves in shallow water would stun the fish and they would float to the surface.

We saw Senepol Cattle, St. Croix's native breed, dotting the hillsides of upland valleys, their reddish color standing out amongst the green vegetation. This heat and drought resistant breed was developed in the early twentieth century by the Nelthropp family (nearby farmers). Senepol cattle are unique Bos Taurus cattle, and were brought to St. Croix from Africa.

Olasee explained with a smile that it is common practice on Caribbean farms to move the livestock from one pasturage to another every 21 days. It is a mysterious wonderment of nature that on the 21st day, like clockwork, the entire herd of cattle is waiting patiently by a high mountain gate for the farmer to let it into the lush new-grass pasture.

At some points, the hike was strenuous, trekking up steep and rocky animal paths to a windy ridge overlooking the northwest and east end.

Along a narrow path on the ridge we passed Black Olive Trees, called Gri-Gri, Ginger Thomas or Yellow Cedar, and the red-trunked Turpentine Tree. A mongoose here and there darted across our path.

As we descended along the fence, electrified at low voltage by inconspicuous solar panels, we passed small groupings of Senepol, some regarding us suspiciously, others nonchalantly ignoring us. We were advised to keep our distance as it was calving season and these usually docile beasts can get testy.

As we made our way back to the relatively flat terrain of the farm house environs, we passed rows of rolled and bundled hay. Fast growing Neem trees shaded us as we gathered on the lawn to summarize (and take a much appreciated breather). The Hiking Association provided fruit and cool bottled water as rewards for our morning exertions.

We came away with a feeling of appreciation for the natural beauty of this part of St. Croix as well as a better understanding of how our culture, through the centuries, has been so inextricably tied to the land. Olasee Davis impressed us as a caring, knowledgeable guardian of St. Croix's "oral tradition". We thank him for sharing with us and we also thank his 101 year old grandmother whose spirit and knowledge enriched each stop along our journey.

Email Olasee Davis for information about the Hiking Association's future adventures. Visitors and non-members welcome!

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