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I
have always been intrigued with history and events of the past that
have brought us to our future. One of the things that makes St. Croix
so mysterious are the ruins of more than 150 sugar plantation and
sugar mills that noticeably dot the hillside and peek out of the valleys
all over St. Croix. I jumped on the opportunity to learn about St.
Croix's Danish past by attending the second "Ruins Ramble" of the
year, sponsored by the St. Croix Landmarks Society. |
Let me begin by explaining
the general format of any ramble…Ruins Rambles are presented monthly from
November to May by the Education Outreach Program of the St. Croix Landmarks
Society. The group assembles on a Sunday afternoon at a designated site
around 3:30pm. |
Following
a brief overview of the history of the property by a historian, the group
is guided through the property. The historic interpretation and light to
moderate hike usually takes from 60 to 90 minutes. Refreshments of local
fruit drinks, wine, cheese and assorted breads and crackers await your return
and round out the afternoon. |
This
particular Ramble was special because it combined ruins from the 16th century
with modern day ruins. The water front property of Estate Anguilla dates
back to 1736 when it was claimed by the King of Denmark, while the aluminum
factory was erected in the 1970's.
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I
was excited to see a group of 75+ locals and tourists of all ages and fitness
levels, eager to take this journey. Our guides, historian George Tyson and
Pat Mahoney, a representative of The Renaissance Group, took turns explaining
the lay out and history of the property. |
The
goal of the Renaissance Group is "to enhance and improve the economy, environment
and quality of life on St. Croix through efficient recovery of resources,
both natural and built, located on their 12,444 – acre industrial site."
The grounds are sprawling with towers, pipes and remains of moving systems. |
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It
is quite overwhelming to be this close to it all, the holding tanks and
the covered conveyer belts that once transported products and by-products
of the aluminum plant from one process to another. I admit, it was a little
eerie. We were in the skeleton of a sleeping giant that would never wake
again. Pat Mahoney spoke of the history of the plant and what the possibility
of machinery remains, location and space can be used for in the future. |
The
large group slowly made it's way down to the beginning of the plantation
ruins. The walk took about 20 minutes, first through the pipe lined corridors
of streets through the plant and finally onto the pathway of red bauxite.
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Our
guide stopped to gather us around where he recited the lineage and described
the various structures of the historic plantation ruins. Seeing them in
the distance was amazing...and we were about to be up close and personal with
what remained.
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We
first encountered the row houses. These houses actually were built as individual
homes for the enslaved residents, but through time and modernization, they
were all connected to form long rows of rooms similar to barracks.
According
to historical records, there were once as many 147 enslaved residents on
the estate.
Thanks
to the people at St. Croix Renaissance Park, we had a path cleared out of
the bush for us to travel on. The bush was thick but if you stopped and
looked off in the distance, you could see more ruins.
Through
this heavily vegetated path, we encountered small remains of what once was
the “Great House,” the residence of the planter and his family. Stirring
in a way you would feel if you were in someone's home without their permission,
the house I was standing in belonged to people who had been long gone but
whose influence and culture helped shape St. Croix into what it is today.
We were standing dead center in the middle of history.
As
I followed the guide's voice, I literally stumbled across one of the more
recent structures of the ruins. A steam chimney, which rises about 150 feet
into the air and has remained well intact. The tower is reminiscent of the
1890's when owner Frances Lunney, added the steam mill and chimney. It stands
as a reminder when industrialization on St. Croix meant cultivating sugar.
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Next,
we came across the animal pens which, on this plantation, were the most
stylish housing any working animal would be proud to call home. Perhaps
it was the style to keep all the buildings on one estate uniform in style.
One tour mate commented on how unusual it was to have such intricate brick
archways on facilities for animals! |

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Again, so much history
and beauty made me fall to the back of the group. I reached the bottom of
the trail and, and there it was, a graveyard. There I stood taking it all
in. Although there were only two headstones, they were the biggest, carved
marble headstones you had ever seen. They were toppled over and cracked,
but still readable. They were of course, previous plantation owners, always
to be with their land. |
As I proceeded
up the path, I stopped to look through a clearing of trees. I didn't realize
how high we were and this clearing provided an impeccable view of the skeleton
of the aluminum plant. There I stood in the middle of remains more than
200 years old looking at remains less than 50 years old. |
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Back
up the trail, past the animal pens, through the bush and to the other
side of the row houses, my scenery went from lush green to the harsh
red of the bauxite that was piled on the other side of the plantation
ruins and lined the walkway back to the modern day ruins of the aluminum
plant. This site resembled Mars — red desert, a sharp contrast to the
200 year old ruins I just emerged from.
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At the
end of the Ramble, and the walk back through "Mars", the group was again
together — but now we gathered for refreshments and to discuss thoughts
and opinions on what each of us had been exposed to. We were given a great
opportunity to experience the ruins, both old and new, and be reminded that
we must preserve our history. History allows us to see mistakes we've made
and build on our accomplishments. St. Croix has come a long way but still
has a history that you can reach out and touch. In a way, the past is the
present on St. Croix. |
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Many
thanks to the St. Croix Landmarks Society and The Renaissance Park for
making this Ruins Ramble possible. For more information on the preservation
and history of St. Croix, please go to St. Croix Landmarks website at
www.stcroixlandmarks.com. |
The
Renaissance Park is doing great things!
Take at look at their website at www.stxrenaissance.com. |
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